One&Only Gorilla's Nest

One&Only Gorilla's Nest is our base in Rwanda for the mountain gorillas. It has twelve private lodges at the foot of the Virunga volcanoes, on the edge of Volcanoes National Park, and the peaks fill the view as you fly in.

The first afternoon is for rest and a short walk, because the next morning starts early. You set out at dawn with your guide and the park's trackers and climb through the forest until they find the family. Then you have one hour with them: the silverback sitting with his back against the bamboo, the mothers feeding, the young climbing over him and sliding off again. The walk back down is usually very quiet.

On Uganda & Rwanda you stay three nights and do more. One morning you track the golden monkeys through the bamboo, a lighter, livelier outing than the gorillas. On another you climb for your second gorilla trek, this time on the Rwandan side of the Virungas, so you have seen two families in two countries. On Gorillas, Migration & Golf you stay two nights and trek once, after the Mara.

The lodge suits anyone making the effort to come this far, and it is a very comfortable place to come back to with tired legs.

A helicopter flies you north-west from Kigali in about thirty minutes, with the volcanoes ahead of you. The same helicopter takes you back to Kigali when you leave.

Good to know

• Gorilla trekking has a minimum age of 15, and permits are booked well ahead.
• Each gorilla family receives no more than eight visitors a day, for one hour.
• The park is high and cool. Bring warm layers, waterproofs and gloves.

Country: Rwanda